Just got my Keylab 88 about 3 weeks ago. Did the Firmware upgrade to the latest 1.1.0.4. Did my first gig with it last night (one keyboard gig) and in the middle of it the A5 - E6 keys went dead. If I hammered on the white keys I could occasionally get the note out with a velocity of about 14 which is way too soft. So today, I setup my rig at home and tried the keys. Sure enough they are still dead after sitting all night. So I did a factory reset twice and refreshed the firmware. Nothing worked.
Now here's where it gets weird. If I play an Ab13 chord with my left hand (F#2, A#2, C3, F3) the keys work every time with all velocities. I discovered this by accident. So I did a little more experimenting and found that even if I play the same Ab13 but hold the keys extremely lightly, the A5 - E6 keys are dead or sketchy. But if I apply pressure to the Ab13 keys, the dead keys start working again.
So this points to something mechanically wrong. I looked at the Fatar website at the TP100/LR which is the keybed the KL88 uses and I see by the pictures of the keybed that the ribbon cables coming out of the keybed seem to come out at F#2 and C#3. So that leads me to believe that either when the keyed was installed, they didn't provide enough clearance or shielding somewhere and that by pressing down on the keys of the Ab13 chord, it provides some clearance or fixes the contacts temporarily, or that there was a defect in the circuit board of the keyed and some solder joint came loose in it that is preventing the contact from completing fully and applying pressure fixes this temporarily.
Can anyone else confirm a similar behavior? If so, then it looks like a flaw with the Fatar circuit board at the middle of the keyed or a short in the ribbon cable when the keyed is installed when the KL88 is assembled at the factory. I'd entertain opening up the case and finding the issue if it weren't for the fact that my KL88 is less than a month old and I can return it under warranty.
Incidentally, I did some research on the internet and found that no other controller that uses this keybed seems to have any issues with dead keys but the Arturia does and the one big difference is the aluminum casing so maybe that's a clue to what's going on here.
Thanks
Jim
Thanks