Arturia Forums
Harware Legacy versions => KeyLab => KeyLab Technical Issues => Topic started by: paulnAR on April 08, 2015, 11:36:14 am
-
I've got a brand new Keylab 88 keyboard and the far right hand side keys (F4-C5) are not working. I've checked in Ableton Live and Audio MIDI Setup but no MIDI control messages appear to be sent from the keyboard for key presses from this range. Has anyone seen this before? I suspect it is a software/firmware issue because everything else on the keyboard works. ???
Any help appreciated before I box this keyboard back up and send it back.
-
Same sort of problem here, with notes A6 to E7 (hexadecimal midi note code 5C to 64) very far on the right but annoying. I've tried to flash downgrade to 1.0.10 still problem, then 1.0.17 again, problem still persist. It appears once when I received the keyboard, then disappeared after a reset (switch on keyboard with both octave up and down key pressed) but for the moment I can't resolve it again :(
-
same here. notes C#6 to G#6 (Roland midi numbering) or sometimes they play and hang.
keyboard reset not fixing it.
will let it sleep overnight and check again in the am.
Amin
-
So in the morning it started up and no problems hours later the missing keys are back. Same ones as before. (In my case C#6 to G#6 Roland numbering)
Note that channel aftertouch still works on those keys, if that helps rectify the problem.
Also using the octave shift switches moves the midi notes but not the keys. The same physical keys don't play no matter what the transpose.
(so at least I can use it as a pseudo 61 note keyboard till this gets fixed!)
(Using Snoize midi monitor software to verify all this.)
Arturia reply please?
Amin Bhatia
-
I've got a brand new Keylab 88 keyboard and the far right hand side keys (F4-C5) are not working. I've checked in Ableton Live and Audio MIDI Setup but no MIDI control messages appear to be sent from the keyboard for key presses from this range. Has anyone seen this before? I suspect it is a software/firmware issue because everything else on the keyboard works. ???
Any help appreciated before I box this keyboard back up and send it back.
same problem here - contacted support. major bummer.
-
Hi All,
Aftertouch applies to the entire keyboard (it is monophonic). There is one strip for the white notes and one for the black notes.
If you have key ranges not working, ensure you have not assigned a key-split. If the keys are genuinely dead, it is likely a problem with the ribbon cable between the keyboard and the main control PCB. You will need to contact Arturia for this.
Arturia please note: I have also suffered this issue and found the ribbon cable had been trapped under the screws/supports during assembly. Please check the assembly process to ensure the cables are routed away from the fixing points.
Ant
-
I'm having the very same issues with the F7-C8 keys. They don't respond unless you hit them really hard. They they play only the highest velocity and stick -- NO GOOD! I tried updating to the latest firmware (1.1.0.4), but that did not resolve the issue. Please, does someone have a fix for this?
-
Same thing last 8 keys dont work.
To bad for a Fatar keybed.
-
Hi ,
my keylab88 not play F5 !
i have open a ticket from support service..
i'm waiting from 10 days..
this version of keylab88 is not stable , can't upgrade firmware
and now i have problem with velocity, always F5 not play when press it..
>:(
-
i have open a ticket from support service..
i'm waiting from 10 days..
Wow that is not good i hope Aturia quickly comes up with a solution :-\
-
Just got my Keylab 88 about 3 weeks ago. Did the Firmware upgrade to the latest 1.1.0.4. Did my first gig with it last night (one keyboard gig) and in the middle of it the A5 - E6 keys went dead. If I hammered on the white keys I could occasionally get the note out with a velocity of about 14 which is way too soft. So today, I setup my rig at home and tried the keys. Sure enough they are still dead after sitting all night. So I did a factory reset twice and refreshed the firmware. Nothing worked.
Now here's where it gets weird. If I play an Ab13 chord with my left hand (F#2, A#2, C3, F3) the keys work every time with all velocities. I discovered this by accident. So I did a little more experimenting and found that even if I play the same Ab13 but hold the keys extremely lightly, the A5 - E6 keys are dead or sketchy. But if I apply pressure to the Ab13 keys, the dead keys start working again.
So this points to something mechanically wrong. I looked at the Fatar website at the TP100/LR which is the keybed the KL88 uses and I see by the pictures of the keybed that the ribbon cables coming out of the keybed seem to come out at F#2 and C#3. So that leads me to believe that either when the keyed was installed, they didn't provide enough clearance or shielding somewhere and that by pressing down on the keys of the Ab13 chord, it provides some clearance or fixes the contacts temporarily, or that there was a defect in the circuit board of the keyed and some solder joint came loose in it that is preventing the contact from completing fully and applying pressure fixes this temporarily.
Can anyone else confirm a similar behavior? If so, then it looks like a flaw with the Fatar circuit board at the middle of the keyed or a short in the ribbon cable when the keyed is installed when the KL88 is assembled at the factory. I'd entertain opening up the case and finding the issue if it weren't for the fact that my KL88 is less than a month old and I can return it under warranty.
Incidentally, I did some research on the internet and found that no other controller that uses this keybed seems to have any issues with dead keys but the Arturia does and the one big difference is the aluminum casing so maybe that's a clue to what's going on here.
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
-
I've got the same issue with the keyboard as others......F7 thru C8 are not working. I'm very frustrated with Arturia at this point and thinking of sending the keyboard back unless these issues get resolved soon. Has anyone had any luck with correcting this problem. I'm not about to take the thing apart since its still under warranty.
-
Hi, just wanted to buy an Arturia keylab 88 and went here to check the comments, if Arturia have bad reputation :P. I hope I'll read about this keys working better in a few days or I won't give a try and won't buy it. :o Wish it could be solved for all of you soon. I though it was THE model for me. It's a pitty. :-\ Somebody has put back the same model on thomann.de
So I don't feel confortable to buy one at all now! ::)
-
Well I figured out my problem with dead keys between F7 and C8. It turns out that the keyboard bends just enough to create a problem with the keys not triggering notes. I am using a Ultimate stand for my keyboard. It was driving me crazy that the last 8 keys were not working and I don't know why, but I decided to gently lift the front right corner of the keyboard off the stand and low and behold, the keys worked. I put the keyboard down on the stand again, and the keys stopped. I finally realized that the keyboard is not rigid enough to support the keybed. This is what has been causing my issue all along.
I haven't tried a fix yet, but I going to put a piece of plywood wood (like a shelf) under the keyboard to help support it when its on my Ultimate Support stand. Hopefully this will fix my issue. Additionally I will have to maybe put a metal edge on the plywood shelf so it doesn't bend under the weight of the keyboard.
Arturia, I think you need to provide a fix for this issue. You may need to further support the frame of the keyboard so that it doesn't have any bend in it. (ps. my Kurtzwiel never had this issue)
-
I had a similar problem: keyboard on work table, some notes don't work, some notes send aftertouch only.
I put the keylab on the floor (hard wood), everything worked.
:( That's really annoying to receive a new keyboard with such defaults. Arturia, do something for this !
-
After some tests, on a stand it works fine but on a sort of sliding drawer under my desk (which is its right place) I still had the problem. It was solved with a 3 mm piece of rubber placed under the front right of the keyboard. It looks like there something mechanical which is very sensible to the tilt but only for keys A6 to E7 in my case. Maybe one day I would take time to open it and look inside
-
Just got my Keylab 88 about 3 weeks ago. Did the Firmware upgrade to the latest 1.1.0.4. Did my first gig with it last night (one keyboard gig) and in the middle of it the A5 - E6 keys went dead. If I hammered on the white keys I could occasionally get the note out with a velocity of about 14 which is way too soft. So today, I setup my rig at home and tried the keys. Sure enough they are still dead after sitting all night. So I did a factory reset twice and refreshed the firmware. Nothing worked.
Now here's where it gets weird. If I play an Ab13 chord with my left hand (F#2, A#2, C3, F3) the keys work every time with all velocities. I discovered this by accident. So I did a little more experimenting and found that even if I play the same Ab13 but hold the keys extremely lightly, the A5 - E6 keys are dead or sketchy. But if I apply pressure to the Ab13 keys, the dead keys start working again.
So this points to something mechanically wrong. I looked at the Fatar website at the TP100/LR which is the keybed the KL88 uses and I see by the pictures of the keybed that the ribbon cables coming out of the keybed seem to come out at F#2 and C#3. So that leads me to believe that either when the keyed was installed, they didn't provide enough clearance or shielding somewhere and that by pressing down on the keys of the Ab13 chord, it provides some clearance or fixes the contacts temporarily, or that there was a defect in the circuit board of the keyed and some solder joint came loose in it that is preventing the contact from completing fully and applying pressure fixes this temporarily.
Can anyone else confirm a similar behavior? If so, then it looks like a flaw with the Fatar circuit board at the middle of the keyed or a short in the ribbon cable when the keyed is installed when the KL88 is assembled at the factory. I'd entertain opening up the case and finding the issue if it weren't for the fact that my KL88 is less than a month old and I can return it under warranty.
Incidentally, I did some research on the internet and found that no other controller that uses this keybed seems to have any issues with dead keys but the Arturia does and the one big difference is the aluminum casing so maybe that's a clue to what's going on here.
Thanks
Jim
Thanks
Thank you very much codevyper " Jim " for your very good analysis of the problem some arturia keylab88 keyboards have.
You brought me to the solution for my keylab88. problem with keys F till C on at the right hand side, but probably also for other keyproblems.
English is not my native language, but I'll try to explain what I did, and what I think is the major problem.
In my case, opening the housing and a simple push at the ribbon cables ( described by Jim ) solved the problem.
One of the ribbon cables seem to find their way close to or against a support. Probably due to heavy transport conditions and (this close reach to the support ) situation, the ribbon flat cable is not at his ideal position anymore. ( bad contact )
If you can move the housing ( case ) like Gb59 (post september 28, 2015 ) is describing, you restore the right connection by coincidence..
It is not a hard problem to solve, you only have to be a litle bit handy and not trying to loosen all screws at the bottom.
Unscrew the 2 screws at the front side and the 2 screws at the back.
Then you unscrew all the screws on the bottom who are maximum 1 inch or 2 cm from the 4 sides, and then on the bottom you stil have to unscrew the 4 screws who are aproximately 10 cm or 4 inch from the back.
DO NEVER UNSCREW THE SCREWS UNTHER THE KEYPATH ITSELF. This is not necessary.
It is a bit a pitty that Arturia hasn't found a solution on time ( my keybord dates mid 2016 ) or good communication to solve this not complicated problem.
The keylab88 is, and stays a very good keybord for this price, if you don't have a problem with the mechanical noise it makes, due to the hammermechanics in a small box. This problem is only for real piano players.
Kind regards,
And I hope this comment will help those with the problems, in or out of warranty. ( mine still in warranty )
And help to persuade people who want to buy this keybord, who think it is a mess.
-
Well I figured out my problem with dead keys between F7 and C8. It turns out that the keyboard bends just enough to create a problem with the keys not triggering notes. I am using a Ultimate stand for my keyboard. It was driving me crazy that the last 8 keys were not working and I don't know why, but I decided to gently lift the front right corner of the keyboard off the stand and low and behold, the keys worked. I put the keyboard down on the stand again, and the keys stopped. I finally realized that the keyboard is not rigid enough to support the keybed. This is what has been causing my issue all along.
I haven't tried a fix yet, but I going to put a piece of plywood wood (like a shelf) under the keyboard to help support it when its on my Ultimate Support stand. Hopefully this will fix my issue. Additionally I will have to maybe put a metal edge on the plywood shelf so it doesn't bend under the weight of the keyboard.
Arturia, I think you need to provide a fix for this issue. You may need to further support the frame of the keyboard so that it doesn't have any bend in it. (ps. my Kurtzwiel never had this issue)
Hello Gb59,
The main problem of the keylab88 is not the standard but has to do with bad contact of one internal ribbon cable. ( described by Jim post 13th september 2015 )
opening the case, pushing on the ribbon cables and closing ther case again takes less than half an hour...
If you keep your keybord connected, you can immediately see when the keys are working and the problem is solved.
See my solution on my post of 5th januari 2018.
Kind regards, electronics