KeyLab 49 keys not responding

[moonfinger]

I just recently purchased my keylab and got it in the mail today. I tried using it with ableton but quickly realized the keys were not working. Everything else seems to be working, including the pads, but nothing registers when any of the keys are pressed. I downloaded the midi control center and had it update the firmware, but it is still not working. I even opened a midi serial monitor and none of the key presses are coming through, though everything else is. It is as if the cable inside the controller connecting the keyboard to the main board became disconnected. I tried finding other instances of this happening to see how people fixed this, but I have yet to come across anyone with the same issue. I really want to start playing with this thing and don't want to have to mail it back...

[retroip]

Hey mate,
You upgraded firmware from version 1.25 to 1.33 ? I bought mine 1 week ago (upgrade from 1,25 to 1.33), but keys are working, so it should not be firmware issue. I just found 1 bug regarding categ / instrument selection encoder, on every 3rd move it switches 2 units instead of 1.

[moonfinger]

Now that you mentioned the encoders, I noticed that both my category and preset encoders skip around almost randomly... I updated the firmware to 1.33 with the midi control center, by the way.

[retroip]

Ok, I'v also checked acceleration via MIDI control center (tried different accelerations if it makes sense somehow), but in anyhow in Analog Lab or in Edit mode it is (acceleration) ignored as designed ( i think),but anyhow, that every 3rd move jump by 2 value is quite annoying.

So back to random skipping, did you noticed it before upgrade ?
Personally, I was playing very short with original firmware (1.25), everything worked, so then I just upgraded to 1.33 and found this 1 bug.

Then I think it makes sense to open the ticket for bug report.

[moonfinger]

I did remember it occurring before the firmware upgrade. I'll play around with the acceleration myself soon and get back here when I get anywhere with that. I still have the problem with the actual keys not working, though. I'm wondering about maybe just opening up the back to make sure it's plugged in. Perhaps the cable came loose and it's just as simple as plugging it back in. Not sure about the warranty, though...

[moonfinger]

I tried changing the acceleration settings, but was unable to... I also checked my friends keyboard and it has the same problem, so I'm starting to think it's simply some sort of setting. I also ended up taking my keyboard apart and found the cable for the keybed just dangling around loose inside, so I connected it and now it works perfectly. Other than the encoder problem(which I suspect is software related) my keyboard is working fine.

[retroip]

ok, cable...

Yes, currently I'm having 2 request/features for firmware after which the KeyLab will be perfect tool, maybe you can check it too.

1. If you set mode of Buttons below faders to Toggle. When you press it (when it sends value 127) does it stay with light ?
Mine Not, I debugged keylab with midi-ox and so that keyboard is not responding to incoming toggle midi message, and does not shine led on button (i need kid of visual feedback) that my instrument is turned on. I think that's a simply firmware...

2. If you configure any pad to Toggle mode:
Light is toggling ON/off thats fine, but value which keyboard sends is always based on pressure / velocity and not 0 / 127, so then toggle mode does not make any sense.

I'm happy to see active member

[moonfinger]

for your first question, I do see the light toggling on and off when I set the buttons bellow the fades to toggle control, as they should. For your second question, it seems to simply wait to send the midi off command, so if you play a note with that pad then release your fingers the note stays playing. I guess it depends on how your midi instrument reacts to the changing after touch, but playing around with operator in ableton it seems to stick to the velocity of the note when I initially hit the pad.

[retroip]

Sorry, I did not mean under faders, but unders knobs/encoders...


Ok, my Buttons are not toggling LED on/off, LED just blink when I press them, regardless if they sends 0 or 127 value and regardless if they are set to toggle control.

So your buttons are acting like in this (my) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP1_rviN3LQ ? On my keyboard just LOOP button act like this, when I set it to toggle mode.
Press once, button sends 127, LED stays ON, press second, button sends 0, led off.
I'm missing this for my 10 buttons under knobs/encoders :/

[moonfinger]

I think that's how it's supposed to act, it does that on mine aswell

[georgenorris]

This is happening to me too.
To go from unboxing it, plugging it in, and having it absolutely not work in so many ways is slightly frustrating.

[MajorFubar]

This is happening to me too.
To go from unboxing it, plugging it in, and having it absolutely not work in so many ways is slightly frustrating.

This is an old thread, the original KeyLab 49 MIDI controller (to which the other posters in this thread refer) hasn't been made or sold for a while. Perhaps you have a KeyLab mkII? In which case you can probably return it under warranty (faulty). However if you really have just unboxed a mkI, it's either going to be used or 'new old stock', either way it possibly will not have a warranty with it. Check with whomever sold it to you. If they tell you they will not receive it back for repair or refund, it's possible you can repair it at home.

If the entire keybed isn't working, the ribbon cable connecting it to the motherboard might be unplugged or broken. But if it kind of works, i.e. with just a few 'dead' keys, this can nearly always be remedied by cleaning the keybed circuitboard with isopropyl alcohol. Of course that won't work if the circuitboard has hairline fractures in it caused by a heavy blow (something heavy fell on the keyboard), but usually this would be obvious from physical marks on the case, and maybe even broken keys.

Gaining access to the circuitboard under the keys is easy but time consuming. Access is from the underside of the MIDI controller by removing the bottom plate. There are a million screws to remove before you finally get to the keybed circuitboard. Set aside around two hours to complete this task for the first time, and be methodical removing and replacing the various screws because they are not all the same size and type. The success of any home home repair like this will depend largely on your own competence. If you don't feel capable, find a local electrician who will do it for you.